Mercedes-Benz Fall Fashion Week at Bryant Park – The clothes. The glamour. The energy. For autumnal fashion, designers modified last season’s trends, focusing on extravagant fabrics instead of extravagant designs.
Shrouded in a mink coat and lugging a black Fendi Spybag, a socialite’s T-strap patent leather heels clicked up the stone steps of Bryant Park. Flashing her invitation for the Carolina Herrera fashion show, she entered the tent, leaving the ordinary denizens of New York City behind.
Carolina Herrera’s (C) fall color palette — black, gray, tan, captain blue and grape — was subdued but her fabrics — organza, fox, cashmere, taffeta, muskrat and chiffon — were luxurious.
An admirable attention to detail sometimes got in the way of the overall design. Herrera studded black tights with crystals for shiny but ridiculous results. From a parachute-like, wide-leg wool pant, to a more signature poppy print swing dress, Herrera’s collection was as eclectic, mystifying and hard pounding as the music pounding through her tent’s audio system.
The ever-inventive Marc Jacobs offered a simple, mature collection of crisp, structured suits accented by colorful wide-brimmed hats.
Conversely, designer Toni Maticevski presented a kooky compilation of abstract cocktail dresses complete with an outrageous canary yellow padded evening dress. It resembled a backward facing Northface puffy jacket.
Metallics made the transition from accessories to clothing for Matthew Williamson and Tracy Reese (A), whose collections both featured metallic pants, blouses, skirts and dresses.
Tights under clothes were a trend: white tights from Luca Luca (B) and striped and polka dot tights from Tracy Reese. At BCBG Max Azria, models wore gray stockings, while Anna Sui featured stockings with blue polka dots.
Surprisingly, purple found its place at multiple fashion shows. Anna Sui (D) worked with a traditional purple while Donna Karan chose plum for DKNY garments. Catherine Malandrino’s collection featured a profusion of purples: royal, aubergine and a deep, brownish Tokyo purple.
The Luca Luca show projected fall 2007 trends, introducing white wool tights, sequined dresses, fur trimmed coats, high waisted skinny and wide leg pants, metallic fabrics and zipper detailing.
Many of the designers at fashion week seemed to be paying homage to the sixties generation. The shows were packed with mod silhouettes and geometric prints.
At Abaete, sixties-inspired patent leather newsboy hats and black and white color combinations paid homage to the simple elegance of Andy Warhol’s muse Edie Sedgwick.