Nestled among storefronts on the busy corner of Commonwealth and Harvard Avnues, Berezka, similar to a Matryoshka doll, is a humble international food store focusing on Russian, Ukrainian and eastern European products. Situated between RealMax Realtor and Tedeschi’s Food market, Berezka is truly a gem that shines in the culturally rich hub of Allston.
Walking into the store, it may be surprising to see how large the store actually is. Shelves filled with biscuits, cookies, meringues, and pastries mirror the deli counter ‘-‘- the central island in the store. After choosing crispy ‘bagels on a rope’ ‘-‘- crunchy rings of wheat and rye hanging on a red ribbon ‘-‘- or melba toast, head towards the deli counter where a cheerful and approachable blonde Russian lady will guide you through the store-made selections, each about $4 per pound. A myriad of arred mushrooms and pickles were available in a variety of marinades, so I only thought it most appropriate to opt for the mushroom salad. A gritty spread similar to the consistency of small cous cous, the salad was fresh and best cold ‘-‘- a good h’or doeuvre option perhaps spread over cream cheese or sour cream on a sliced baguette. After little more perusing, I chose the house-made liver p’acirc;t’eacute; ‘-‘- definitely one of the best I’ve ever had. A silky texture, the p’acirc;t’eacute; was perfect on toast topped with fresh dill, also available from Berezka in their modest, but reliable, produce section.
There are also ready-made entrees ‘-‘- the duck confit is braised in a sweet but not cloying marinade, scattered with raisins ($6.99 per pound). Another nice option for a quick lunch are the vegetable or potato latkes ‘-‘- non-greasy, thick patties that do fine in the microwave. If you are looking for something that requires a bit more TLC ‘-‘- be sure to scope out the incredible fish selection. With Nova Scotia lox, whitefish, smelt and cans of salmon caviar, a pescaphile will not go home empty-handed.
Stop by the charcuterie section for hard salamis and pastrami. The cured, peppercorn hard salami is great with spicy Russian mustard or horseradish on coarse-grain rye and goes for about $4.99 per pound. The blood sausage is not for everyone, but it is locally made and for gourmands who enjoy their offal ‘-‘- this is one of the only places in Allston to get it, as with frozen veal tongue and beef liver.
Hopefully, if you are an Allstonite, instead of opting for Dietz & Watson at Shaw’s to satiate carnivorous needs, you’ll choose the accessible delicacies offered at your local Russian mart.
Finally, before grabbing pudgy handfuls of individual European chocolates, be sure to purchase the locale’s signature half-sour pickles. For only $1.79 a pound, choose between half-sour and sour pickles. Perfectly garlicky and a subtle vinegar finish, the cucumbers used are petite and crunchy with optimum taste.
Be sure to visit Berezka Monday through Saturday 9 a.m. to 9 p.m. , Sundays from 10 a.m. to 8 p.m. and enjoy this cultural treat, more precious than a Faberge egg.
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