Picture this: Sand under your toes, sea salt in your hair, a faint smell of the ocean lingers in the air. Behold the feeling you get at KAVA neo-taverna.
Ambience is what makes dining out so special. A good restaurant can transport you to a new destination, whether that be the bustling streets of Vietnam, or the clay roads of Peru. But at Kava neo-taverna, I was taken to an island somewhere along the Aegean Coast of Greece.
Located in Boston’s South End, KAVA neo-taverna serves Greek small plates alongside a variety of imported wines & spirits.
The restaurant was more than bustling, even in the middle of the week. It was as if you had been placed in the epicenter of a big Greek wedding as loud chatters and laughs bounced off the walls.
Customers sat in low wooden chairs that were painted white to mimic the restaurant’s walls and ceilings. Large windows made up the entirety of the right wall, letting in the setting sun and casting a golden hue. The lighting was enhanced by the yellow-hued exposed lightbulbs which hung from brown ropes tied to the ceiling.
Could it be that I was truly sitting in the whitewashed limestone form of Greece?
My party of two was seated and immediately greeted by a metal tin of bread served with a dish of olive oil. The bread, while slightly stale, was enjoyable. It served as a vehicle to spoon the fresh olive oil onto my tongue.
My palette was now set and ready for the incoming flavors of each small plate.
First came the special of the day — the calamari salad. The grape tomatoes and notes of lemon made the salad refreshing. Olive oil served as the dressing, which delicately coated the arugula, olives and grilled octopus that made up the rest of the platter. The dressing was enhanced with capers, which added a level of acidity that enticed my palette. I effectively utilized the leftover dressing with the table’s second helping of bread.
From the small plates came the Kolokithakia, or zucchini chips with tzatziki. While I wasn’t surprised by the simple taste due to the dish’s minimalistic appearance, my expectations were thoroughly met. The light batter added a pleasing crisp that perfectly contrasted the moistness of the zucchini. The decadent and thick tzatziki complemented each chip beautifully. The contrast of creamy and crispy sounded off like a symphony in my mouth.
I admired the dish’s presentation, with each chip cut thinly and arranged in a shape reminiscent of a flower with open petals, though part of me couldn’t help but compare its presentation to that of the Bloomin’ Onion from Outback Steakhouse.
For the entree, we ordered the mixed grill, which we hoped would harbor the greatest variety from the menu: Two lamb chops, a chicken skewer, a pork skewer and a greek sausage were served alongside a pile of fries.
While the char on the meat was perfect, the flavor felt lackluster. The desired medium-rare lamb chop was closer to a medium-well. However, the lamb itself remained tender. The Greek sausage tasted salty, and both skewers craved a note of acidity. Alone, the flavors of the meat were repetitive, but they were improved when we paired them with the leftover tzatziki from the previous dish.
KAVA neo-taverna pays homage to the fresh and simple flavors of Greek cuisine. The ambience is enticing and the seating more than inviting. I hope to be back for another night out and try a greater spread of the menu.
