Tailored trench coats and gowns with capes have entered the runway with Lanvin’s Autumn and Winter 2025 collection, “À LA MAISON.”
Artistic Director Peter Copping took inspiration from Jeanne Lanvin, founder of the Lanvin house, and her stylistic elegance. The collection continues the ‘20s and ‘30s style revival that the fashion world truly needed.
Following Alber Elbaz’s departure as creative director from Lanvin in 2015, fashion enthusiasts anticipated seeing what Copping had in store for this season.
Before succeeding Elbaz, Copping contributed as the artistic director of Nina Ricci, a French fashion house, and later as the creative director of Oscar de la Renta, a New York-based luxury goods firm. His work in these roles revealed his distinctive vision and influence on the fashion world.
However, as this collection was Copping’s first time designing menswear, many were interested to see how he would incorporate it with womenswear. Fans were also intrigued to see how Copping would also take influence from Jeanne Lanvin’s legacy and integrate it into the collection.
The show opened with a model styled in a black boxy-fit pea coat paired with a coffee-brown silk midi skirt and blue velvet kitten heels. Copping paid extra attention to the subtle accents within this look. He placed tortoiseshell buttons on the coat, gold metal pieces on the heels and fringe details on the navy blue foldover bag.
As the show progressed, there were brighter hues of red, yellow and gold, as well as eye-catching patterns, including floral designs and zigzag layers. Copping also played around with different textures and materials, incorporating sequin-embroidered mesh dresses and tops, in addition to tweed and fur coats.
The accessories throughout this collection remained elegant yet muted, with models styled in neutral-colored leather handbags, velvet visors and suede and leather gloves. The women’s collection also displayed heels with flat bottoms, and the men’s collection featured pointed dress shoes.
Copping certainly displayed his expertise for designing dresses and gowns, especially with his eccentric executions. Copping exhibited suede silk dresses in both draped layering and spiral patterns, while also presenting chic velvet gowns with diamond-studded capes.
The goal of the collection was to bring Jeanne Lanvin’s archival style to fruition and elevate her idea of “le chic ultime” through modern means. In addition, this collection expressed a sense of romanticism. To encapsulate this theme, Copping utilized textures of silk and satin, as well as incorporating flowy open-back dresses in the women’s collection.
Additionally, Copping created an off-the-shoulder, drop-waisted gold lurex dress with an asymmetric overlapping bottom to subtly dedicate and honor Jeanne Lanvin within his collection.
This look was showcased last in the show, with Copping calling back to Lanvin’s iconic “robe de style” design which was popular throughout the 1920s. However, Copping simultaneously incorporated a more bold, mesmerizing touch to it.
There were also no accessories in this look, which ultimately placed more attention on the garment’s silhouette itself.
Copping placed a huge emphasis on details for all aspects of the show. Models strutted down a long black carpet, surrounded with black and white checkered patterns and a pink and black geometric triangular design, which replicated Jeanne Lanvin’s bathroom tile design. There was certainly a more intimate atmosphere at the show, especially considering its name, “À LA MAISON,” which directly translates to “at home” in French.
In addition, guests’ invitations to the show were printed postcards from the Exposition internationale des Arts décoratifs de Paris, to which Jeanne Lanvin served as president of in 1925.
Renowned guests sitting front row included Laufey, Britt Lower and Anna Wintour.
The looks, details and overall atmosphere of this collection portrayed Lanvin’s return to its original, iconic roots. Ultimately, the collection honored the fundamental mark Jeanne Lanvin left on the House.
Especially as it was Copping’s first season with Lanvin, many can say he certainly fulfilled the House’s values and stylistic foundations through his designs, leaving the fashion world eagerly awaiting his future collections.
