If you were lucky enough to have an Italian grandmother who insisted on stuffing you with delicious, homemade food at every opportunity, a trip to Bertucci’s will leave you with a familiar feeling of satisfaction. The restaurant’s slogan, ‘Everybody eats when they come to our house,’ perfectly fits its welcoming, comfortable atmosphere. Old family portraits and wine bottles give the large restaurant a homey feel, while the full bar and Ella Fitzgerald records playing in the background add a touch of class.
The menu is extensive and surprisingly low-priced, making Bertucci’s ideal for a large dinner with friends. One can choose from a variety of brick-oven pizzas, some topped with classic Italian pepperoni or sausage and some with more creative toppings such as Shrimp Bella Venezia (shrimp with garlic, fresh herbs, and lemon-pepper cream) or scallops and bacon. If you’ve never tried brick-oven pizza, you’ll be pleasantly surprised by its unique, slightly smoky flavor.
Bertucci’s also specializes in Neapolitan pizza, which has a thinner crust and gourmet toppings like carmelized onions, rosemary-rubbed Italian cotto ham and fire-roasted artichokes. The eatery is one of only a few restaurants in America that has received the Certificate of Authenticity from L’Associazone Vera Pizza Napoletana in Naples, the pizza capital of the world.
The wine list features very well-chosen Italian and American wines as well as a few selections from Australia and Chile. I tried the Placido Trebbiano, a white that was surprisingly smooth and floral for its very reasonable price. Bertucci’s also serves mixed drinks and a nice variety of American and imported beers.
Traditional Italian appetizers like bruschetta and antipasto are all available, as are more innovative hors d’oeuvres like Eggplant Napoleone: layers of roasted eggplant, plum tomatoes, Neapolitan mozzarella, fresh basil and pesto, skewered with a rosemary sprig and served with warm breadsticks over fresh field greens. I tried the Three Cheese Focaccia, which consisted of three Italian cheeses melted between crunchy focaccia bread and served with a roasted tomato sauce this dish is truly the grilled cheese sandwich of the gods. The cheese was rich and flavorful and the roasted tomato sauce had a mellow, slightly woody flavor.
Besides pizza, Bertucci’s serves an impressive variety of pasta dishes and entrees. We sampled the Scaloppine Alla Romana, thin slices of lightly breaded and sautéed chicken with prosciutto cotto and fresh sage topped with melted provolone cheese. The chicken was moist and tender, the sauce rich and buttery. Although they’re quite filling by themselves, many of the dinner items are served with a large portion of pasta pomodoro. We also tried the Scallops a Cappella a half-pound of sweet Atlantic scallops brick-oven-broiled with extra virgin olive oil, roasted garlic and rosemary and topped with crispy breadcrumbs. The scallops were fresh and perfectly cooked, the topping light and flaky.
Our waitress was extremely prompt and attentive and was always ready to answer our questions about the menu. After our filling meal, we still had leftovers to take home, and although we were full we couldn’t resist the temptation of Bertucci’s decadent dessert menu. We opted for the Trilogy, a sampling of three of the restaurant’s most popular desserts: tiramisu, chocolate torta and tartufo. While all three confections were delicious, the tartufo definitely stole the show. A delicate chocolate and hazelnut shell surrounding rich espresso ice cream, this dessert is fit for royalty.
Whether you’re celebrating a special occasion or just having a casual dinner, you can rely on Bertucci’s for heaping portions of real Italian food with a bit of gourmet panache. Although it’s reasonably priced, a meal at Bertucci’s feels like splurging. If you want a hot Italian meal on a winter night but don’t feel like trekking out to the North End, you need look no further than Bertucci’s in Kenmore Square.