The Hotel Commonwealth prides itself on its newest casual dining addition, Eastern Standard, located in Kenmore Square. While walking into the restaurant one cannot help but feel dwarfed by the extremely high ceiling from which hang equally large chandeliers. The room is reminiscent of a 1920s men’s smoking lounge with walls covered in dark wood paneling and floors to match. Large red leather booths encircle the dining area, separating it from a massive bar that would make Bacchus jealous. The whole room evokes a feeling of chic sophistication, but this cannot be said of the menu. Consisting of pedestrian foods for obscene prices (about $20 a plate for dinner), it leaves much to be desired. On Sundays the restaurant offers a brunch, which is slightly more affordable.
In a restaurant that is so ascetically sophisticated, one might expect to see new and innovative dishes on the menu. Perhaps a fire grilled mélange of aged, heat-shocked cheddar imported from Wisconsin with a rondelle of tomato nestled between two slices of pain blanc or even a pan seared crepe d’americaine bathed in the finest maple essence and topped with a mound of gently aerated cream; not grilled cheese and pancakes. The inconsistency between the decorum and menu leaves customers a bit confused. Some come dressed extremely well as if on the way to a formal event while others come with their children dressed in jeans and sweatshirts. The restaurant is young and still has yet to find its exact niche in Kenmore Square.
That said, Eastern Standard is a great spot for a night cap or a special date. The atmosphere is beautiful, the staff is very helpful and the wine list is extensive, but of course, the food is way too expensive. Eastern Standard is just a diner masked in a five star restaurant’s decorum.m
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