Enjoying tapas is somewhat of a culinary adventure: dish after dish arrives in quick succession, each one offering a different aroma and taste to surprise your palate. Traditionally, tapas (which literally means “to cover,” but in the culinary world means small dishes of food) were served to encourage conversation, with the idea that people do not have to remain so focused on a large meal placed in front of them, but can instead move around and converse between courses. Tasca, in Brighton, serves a variety of small plates in a large but cozy atmosphere that immediately transports one to Madrid, Barcelona or wherever your dream Spanish destination may be.
As we followed the hostess to our tiny corner table, it was hard for my guest and I not to notice the alluring décor. The restaurant adopted a rustic French interior design theme with a Spanish twist. The vibe is romantic, but sexy &-&- dark red spicy colored walls with dim lighting and gorgeous candles create a perfect dinner atmosphere.
After ordering about eight different plates to split between the two of us, we ordered a pitcher of sangria ($18), which was strong but sweet. The slices of juice-soaked apples and oranges added a classic Spanish touch and were the perfect treat to nibble on after we guzzled down each glass.
Only 10 quick minutes passed while sipping on Sangria before our first dish was brought out. The herbed goat cheese fritters served on oven-dried vine-ripened tomatoes ($6.95) were the best tapas of the evening. The deep-fried hor d’oeuvres were delightful; the soft cheese was a great textural contrast to the shell of the crispy pocket. The delicious baked bread that came with the dish is great for mopping up any gooey leftovers.
Next, our waitress brought out the slow oven-braised boneless beef short ribs over scallion-mashed potato in jus ($6.95), a heaping portion that we couldn’t finish. The mashed potatoes were light and fluffy, the perfect consistency served with the tender, flavorful beef. We dug into the Casoulet Cazuela of beef, duck, chicken and chorizo braised with tomatoes, vegetables and white beans ($6.50), which was slightly reminiscent of a Super Bowl-type bean dip, but instead packed a sophisticated flavor and texture.
The buttery-garlic escargot ($6.95) were served piping hot and bursting with flavor. The Albóndigas homemade tenderloin meatballs in green peppercorn sauce ($4.95) were enjoyable, but forgettable. The oven-crisped garlic infused chicken ($6.50) and the Tortiall Espanola ($4.50), a Spanish potato and onion omelet, are valid replacements Although we were stuffed from the savory courses, we opted for the Pastel Vasco ($5.95), a layered dessert of a homemade Oreo-type cookie base laced with milk toffee, bananas and lots of whipped cream. The dish, which is big enough to share, had a complex but not cloying flavor profile: sweet, salty, crispy and smooth all worked together in perfect harmony.
I give Tasca an eight out of 10. The service was decent and most of the dishes were cooked perfectly and had an amazing array of flavors. Good value, an extensive wine list and menu, and the great location near campus all make Tasca a great choice for a special occasion or romantic Friday night dinner.
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