Acne Studios’ recent presentation at Paris Fashion Week for their Spring/Summer 2024 collection solidifies their reputation as a brand adept at crafting intriguing silhouettes while maintaining their standing as a go-to label for street style.
The runway featured an off-white, almost pink hue with metallic accents that complemented the clothing seamlessly. Many pieces sported neutral or light shades punctuated by bursts of vivid colors like burnt yellow and vibrant red, as well as metallics.
The collection predominantly showcased slim-fitting garments, often boasting elongated silhouettes, swapping out cropped tops and favoring higher-necked blouses.
Many designers appeared to force a greater emphasis on the fit and tailoring of the apparel, rather than relying on attention-grabbing graphics or unconventional shapes. The models were primarily adorned in monochrome or similar tones, adhering to a minimalist aesthetic for the entire show.
In terms of fabrics, I thought the standout element was the adept use of gathering — especially when working with mesh fabrics.
A white dress, seemingly composed of a blend of tulle and a softer mesh, was artfully draped across the body for an improved fit, creating creases that added both tactile and visual texture. The use of tulle was further exemplified by the scattered florets adorning the dress. This incorporation of mesh aligns with the ongoing trend of see-through mesh or lace shirts.
Another recurring feature of the collection was the drop-waist skirts, which didn’t sit flush on the hips but instead fashioned a slight ledge with the waistband. Many of these skirts were microskirts, adhering to current trends, while others took the form of midi skirts, showcasing various fabrics at different lengths that resembled a clothesline.
The runway also included standout designs in multiple colors. One such was a knee-length blazer that mimicked pants in a deep red and charcoal gray, as well as a loosely-fitted, long-sleeved dress that exposed the midriff from the sternum to below the navel.
Both of these designs are poised to resonate with street style enthusiasts, and may soon find their way onto the shelves of other brands.
The show was characterized by Jonny Johansson, the current creative director as “elevated industrial,” with the entire presentation aimed at evoking the atmosphere of nightlife just as the lights come on. Johansson harbors a special affliction for denim and leather. This year’s Spring/Summer collection features an acid wash full denim ensemble with a U-neck jacket and matching pants, alongside microskirts and long leather jackets.
As a whole, the show marks a departure from the delicate and feminine tone of last year’s presentation, further solidifying Acne Studios’ reputation for being cool, effortless and playful.
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