If it’s Southern comfort and a Thanksgiving-style food coma you’re after, look no further than Kendall Square’s newest addition, Hungry Mother. The restaurant’s d’eacute;cor — clean, modern pieces mixed with country antique for a warm and comforting feel — and its menu combine a love for Americana and the staples of Southern Virginia-themed cooking with the sophistication of French culinary technique.
Start your evening with a cocktail from the menu of house mixed drinks. The cocktails, named by number, are a collection of refreshing combinations that play on the Euro-Southern mix. The “no. 8,” a mix of tequila, curaçao, fresh lime, orange bitters and pep up is a great one to begin with. But if you really want to go South, try “no. 10,” a combination of bourbon, sweet tea and limoncello served in a Mason jar (but be warned — that bourbon really makes itself present).
To the unbridled foodie, the menu can be overwhelming: every item looks appealing. A fun way to start is with the signature boiled peanuts, which are served unshelled and sprinkled with large crystals of sea salt. The deviled eggs are too much of a treasure to pass up, and they play their role well by not deviating too far from the classic recipe. Fried oysters are paired nicely with a celeriac slaw, a modern variation on the classic coleslaw.
The restaurant’s prized dish is its bourbon-braised pork shoulder, coupled expertly with creamy grits for the ultimate Southern dish. The roasted chicken should not be neglected, and could even be ordered solely for the sweet potato spoonbread and gravy it comes with. And don’t forget the menu’s side dishes — check out the saut’eacute;ed collards to get in some tasty greens.
In keeping with the rest of the menu, the dessert list excels. The rhubarb sorbet is both different and surprisingly addictive. The sticky bun, despite being a bit too chewy, is still lick-your-plate good.
Overall, Hungry Mother is an impressive and inviting new restaurant on the scene, but there were a few disappointments: the cornbread, normally a cornerstone of country cooking, was average at best, and in parts, the roasted chicken was underdone.
