In Texas? BBQ. In Chicago? A hot dog. But in Boston, seafood is the catch — more specifically — lobster. This beady crustacean, packaged in a bright red shell, is sought after by the palettes of locals and tourists alike.
Last Sunday, my father flew into Boston to compete with me in the Cambridge Half Marathon. Staying only a night in the city, he requested his one free meal to test out one of Boston’s signature dishes: the lobster roll.
We’re no stranger to this delicacy. In the past, we tried the bland, overpriced gems on Newbury Street and the tourist gimmicks in Quincy Market.
However, today we were in search of an experience — something with complexity. We wanted to indulge in our craving.
Located in Boston’s historic North End, Neptune Oyster is a high-end, intimate seafood spot with seating for just 37 guests. The restaurant holds a 4.4/5 star rating on Google with over 4,000 reviews.
Tourist trap or neighborhood gem? Only time would tell.
We arrived at the scene half-past twelve, later than we anticipated due to the typical, gruesome Boston traffic. The queue for the restaurant nearly wrapped around the corner of the block, but this line was no shock. My father and I were prepared to wait for this highly anticipated feast.
After 40 minutes, our party of two were seated at the counter, in the seat furthest from the entrance. I enjoyed my view — to my left, I caught a glimpse of the chefs working furiously behind the line, and to my right, I saw customers, deep in indulgence and conversation.
The restaurant itself was tiny. A single line of booths and bar seats lined the establishment. The interior felt vintage and nostalgic — orb shaped lights hung between large mahogany brimmed mirrors and placed above dark burgundy booth seats. White marble tables contrasted the dark blue accent walls, accented with eccentric — yet odd — fish posters.
Though spatially cramped, service moved swiftly behind the bar and through space between the seating, as if dancing to the cacophony of chatters.
We opened our palettes with a recommendation from our server: a set of Mere Point oysters from Maquoit Bay. The outside was soft, yet the bite was slightly chewy. The oyster was complemented beautifully by the tangy and sweet horseradish cocktail sauce.
Already, the name Neptune Oyster was justified. Turns out, I do like oysters. Without thinking, we quickly ordered more.
We tried the Pocomo Meadow oysters from Nantucket Mass, they were saltier than the last, while the Unicorn oysters from Damariscotta Mass. had a subtle, sweet finish. It was as if I was on the fishing boat, tasting each fresh morsel pulled straight from the water.
Then came hot starters: we ordered the special for that day, bay scallops with chimichurri sauce. The platter came with 14 bite-sized morsels, which each served as vehicles to transport the sauce into my mouth. The size of the scallops left me impressed with the cook — not gummy, rather tender and seared to perfection. However, they were $29. I would order it again if it wasn’t on my bill.
Now the star of the show: the infamous lobster roll — complemented with a heaping portion of arugula salad — which we opted for instead of fries.
For the roll itself, we chose hot butter over mayo, and it proved optimal. The warm decadence seeped into the char-grilled bun, giving the inside of the roll a soft, squishy chew. The lobster had a delightful bounce to it. My palette was delighted as it moved back and forth between the indulgent roll and sharp, acidic salad. This platter hit all the marks.
The reviews online raved for another dish, labeling its cornmeal batter to be the hidden gem — the actual star of their meal. The Neptune Johnnycake — little did I know, the best was yet to come.
The platter that came was glistening, it had an aura like a halo. It was something with a divine energy. Golden honey butter dripped down each crevice of the cake and, in its center, lay a delicate dollop of smoked bluefish topped with a sprinkle of black sturgeon caviar.
Like a stream, cake flowed into my mouth — each bite cascaded into the next. The texture was addicting, the soft and gooey center perfectly juxtaposed with the exterior crispy edges.
I cut a line down the center of this masterpiece to divide the cake between myself and my father. I had to make sure I got my fair share. This dish was a masterpiece, a delicacy to savor.
Maybe it was hunger, or the sheer anticipation of the meal, but if I was asked by someone for a recommendation to prove Boston’s seafood scene, I’d say Neptune Oyster.
