I’ve visited countless Japanese restaurants growing up, but Matsunori, located at 900A Beacon St., was my first encounter with the temaki specialty.
Like regular maki sushi, temaki uses seaweed to carry vinegared rice, sashimi, and vegetable fillings — but they roll differently. Maki rolls use a bamboo mat to tighten up the seaweed and stuffing in a cylindrical shape, whereas temaki rolls have a layer of seaweed, under or around, like a cone, to hold stuffings.
The menu is just as simple — 12 styles of hand rolls in three tiers, with options of sashimi and cooked meat.
A5 Miyazaki Wagyu has been my go-to order. The soft and juicy wagyu on the vinegared rice looked no different from a nigiri. With the seaweed wrap and a sprinkle of scallion, the wagyu hand roll gets a balance of veggie and meat juice. When I took smaller bites to find the wasabi stuffed inside, I took time to chew the crispy seaweed and tender beef.
To savor the classic fusion of soy sauce and wasabi, try the Sake and Negitoro hand rolls. Both come in cold raw sashimis rolled in warm rice and basic seasonings — sesame and scallions. I dipped them in soy sauce for a strong taste because the sashimi was plain.
More intensely flavored rolls like the Spicy Tuna and Shrimp Tempura have an interesting blend of sweetness and spice. The Shrimp Tempura roll was one of the few cooked hand rolls and the only one I didn’t touch with soy sauce. On top of the fresh tempura was homemade, mildly spicy mango salsa, making me question whether it was a South American fusion. The fusion was a good stretch from the conventional sushi style on the limited menu.
Matsunori is on a soft opening, so one chef and two waiters cannot provide a thorough dining service for each customer when crowds form. Reservations are unavailable, and the walk-in demands exceed capacity, resulting in hour-long waits.
I prefer the exclusive dining experience of Japanese cuisine in a confined space. An order of Hojicha can settle me at the bar for an hour, where I can watch the chef prepare the rolls. A minimal interior design, warm lights, and R&B tunes could make a restaurant a great dating experience.
My last visit cost $40 for three rolls and a tea, including tax and tips, a reasonable price for an occasional dinner. Each hand roll is the size of my hand. The size tricked me into thinking I could eat more full. The soft-opening menu was an exciting sneak peek at the full menu. I expect desserts and more temaki flavors when the entire menu comes out.
Unfortunately, Matsunori won’t schedule their grand opening until they are staffed with a second chef. Before then, from 6 p.m. to 10 p.m. on Tuesday to Sunday, make the best of the menu they have now.
