The explosively popular FoodPorn.com has re-introduced the elements of exclusivity, danger and seduction to the food world on a macro level. It is accessible by anyone, virtually anywhere.
There is something fantastically sexy about logging on and secretly lusting over amateurish photos of black trumpet fungi and blueberry buckle. Taras Grescoe has taken this idea and ran with it (around the globe) in his book The Devil’s Picnic, on a journey ‘through the underworld of food and drink’ and invites you to come along.
Grescoe’s menu is laced with foodstuffs that would get you kicked out of that comfy single in West Campus. If your RA finds some bolivian coca tea made from the extract of the same plant that yields raw cocaine, they might overlook that six-pack of Zima shoved in your microfridge, between your Uncrustables and smuggled West Campus secret sauce.
Devil’s Picnic is a nine-course tasting menu, with Grescoe sampling delicacies from all over the world and all with one unifying trait ‘-‘- they are highly illegal in one cosmopolitan arena or the other. Whether he is purposely attempting an arrest in Singapore because of illicit poppy seed crackers or arranging a few buddies to smuggle in some cohiba esplendidos, or Cuban cigars, into the good ole’ USA, Grescoe keeps the reader on their toes, wondering whether or not he will end up with the same fate as the subjects on Locked Up Abroad.
The author picks the reader up immediately and offers them a drink with the opening chapter, Hjemmebrent, named for ‘Viking Moonshine’. Grescoe travels through Oslo, Norway and travels through bars and cafes, talking to locals with finesse and humor, while maintaining a cultural sensitivity. Throughout his anecdotes, Grescoe reminds the reader of both America’s history with whatever forbidden substance the chapter is featuring, while juxtaposing it with another country’s.
Listeriosis is the protagonist in ‘Eacute;poisses, the chapter about ‘the cheese that kills.’ It’s difficult to prevent your blood from curdling after learning about the United States’ asphyxiating, preventative rules on the pasteurization of imported cheeses. Not only has anyone in the USA (who plays by the rules) never had the creamy, briney goodness of a raw-milk cheese, but they probably never will if they choose to buy cheese domestically. Grescoe opens up the readers’ eyes to problems with the USA’s hyper-obsessive import regulations by merely visiting tiny villages in France and sampling a cheese plate.
Absinthe Suisse recalls everyone’s first Google for ‘how to build a time machine’ in order to transport themselves back to 1920’s Paris, to sip on wormwood-laced juice. Grescoe takes us there ‘-‘- sort of.
He investigates where in France and Switzerland to find the authentic green fairy ‘-‘- and how to stealthily ask the bartender at a Swiss dive for une petite bleue ‘-‘- and get it.
Devil’s Picnic is a journey through the abyss of prohibited food and drink, Grescoe playing the role of your recalcitrant travel buddy, daring you to take that one bite of contraband, and shoving the rest in your pockets ‘-‘- hoping the customs official won’t notice.
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